Author Topic: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II  (Read 7478 times)

Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #30 on: January 20, 2009, 11:31:09 PM »
Need a fender, see Driver's Lounge topic "The worst thing you can do to a project car?"

*swearing from Cooter  ::)
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #31 on: February 02, 2009, 03:00:06 PM »












I made it all one color, primer! This way, hopefully she looks more like a real car and less like an assault vehicle, but hey, it IS a Scout!

I could've taken much more care painting, but I plan on soda blasting down to bare metal when I'm ready for real paint. For now, I just want "better", because "good" would cost too much!  ::)
 ;D :o ;D

PS: EVERYONE should own at least one convertible before they die.  ;)

PPS: The more observant of you will notice that I've done a LOT of no-so-obvious work...heehee!
« Last Edit: February 02, 2009, 03:06:45 PM by Hoplee »
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #32 on: February 02, 2009, 05:02:40 PM »
~SEE PICS PREVIOUS POST~

The latest improvement to the performance of the Scout is the same air-cleaner that another Scout buddy just bought!  I've always liked the way the triangle Edelbrock Pro-Flow air cleaners looked. I think they used to use something similar on sprint cars? Anyway, despite a few minor issues, it solved several problems for me -CHEAPLY- and was about $20 complete.

Problem One: I needed an air filter, but didn't have any luck matching it up with anything at O-Reilly's (NAPA is hard for me to get to). The BB was down, so I didn't have a great way to figure out where to get one. The Edelbrock unit is supposedly washable/reusable and costs just a little more than a filter alone. The foam element is also available separately as P/N 1099, nice.

Problem Two: My flame arrestor is on the passenger's side valve cover. The OEM air cleaner has the male fitting that the flame arrestor needs to connect to on the driver's side. Auto parts stores have started to suck and no longer buy EGR hose on a spool. Instead, they sell 20" max lengths of it in little plastic or paper boxes. I needed more than 20"...ugh. So, instead of buying a male to male air hose fitting/more hose, or swapping the valve covers side to side and re-sealing them,or going on a special trip to Mill & Mine for hose... I just used an air cleaner that allowed me to put the inlet on the passenger's side, requiring only about 7" of EGR hose,  which I already had!

Be advised, the plastic inlet and block off plugs supplied really stink. use a bolt on or screw in fitting / plug for  any kind of reliable connection.

I'm using the plastic EGR inlet, but I had to shave it with a razor and cuss several times to get it in place. The plug went in easy, and came out on its own just as easily a day later when I found it laying on the intake. &(^%##! Without the plug, you've got a path into your intake that bypasses the filter, so for now I've blocked it off with a bolt and nut, but will probably screw something over it this week as a delete plate.

It runs MUCH quieter when the EGR system is hooked up properly!! This completes the EGR mission that began with a collapsed PCV hose and mystery delete fitting on the valve cover. The Scout now starts MUCH easier, shows significantly improved throttle response, AND doesn't make that god-awful snap, crackle, pop sound every time I open the throttle!

Heck. Yes.

The other bonus is that it's now possible to see/evaluate the choke linkage from above AND even from the driver's seat with the hood up, which made finally fixing that bugger a lot easier!

WARNING!: If the nylon locknut supplied ever comes off its stud, it's going into your engine!

I think that a jam nut might be a REALLY good idea for this air cleaner! I also noticed and removed the nylon shavings made when the nylock did it's thing during install.

My only other advice is to make sure that the retaining bar doesn't interfere with your choke linkage BEFORE you install the locknut!!!

If you don't, you've just used up your locknut and will need a new one. I had to rotate the bar about 5 degrees in the horizontal plane for clearance on my Holley 2300 center-hung, but will install a spacer underneath the air cleaner base-plate soon to make it idiot proof. Spacers/adapters are about 5 or 7 bucks for an assortment, and you could probably trade the ones you don't use for a six pack... The other solution I have it to "key it" so that the bar and air cleaner can't rotate around each other or the carb body. May require a little imagination, but would need just about nothing from the old wallet!

The only other downside to this filter is that it probably isn't the best solution for max power. Engines generally make their best power drawing from a large, still source of air. The Edelbrock unit draws air directly from the pressurized and turbulent engine compartment.one solution would be to box it in and connect it to the fresh air intake in the cowling directly beneath the front windshield.

PS; What's the P/N of a new flame arrestor?
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #33 on: February 15, 2009, 03:07:39 AM »
General Update:
*Installed (temporarily) a tachometer for the first time. Found out I have been severely under-revving the engine. (to avoid excessive exhaust noise in "Pleasant Valley"  ;)). Idle speed is about 500-600 RPM. 4000 RPMs plus is, in contrast ...a little loud. ::)

*Current assessment of evaporative loss control system:
->Drain Back line from main rear fuel vapor condensation vessel disconnected. ...Bugger.

*I finally figured out where this one bracket goes that I've been squinting at for months! It bolts to the thermostat housing for a spark plug wire wiring loom clip! These are the things that keep me up at night.  ::)

*Lock-O-Matic Hubs are out of commission. I MAY have enough good parts to make one, but I'm not optimistic. I removed the auto-body portion of the M178 hubs and replaced the housings to keep out dust until I find some parts!
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #34 on: July 15, 2009, 03:37:57 PM »
I could try and explain everything I've been doing, but as they said in the Princess Bride:

'Lemme 'splain... No, there is too much! Lemme sum up!'

so I figured I'd just try and impress you with a picture I just took:

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Blooze

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #35 on: July 16, 2009, 08:48:43 AM »
Heavens!  Lookin' GOOD Hopper...

;D $
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Bad One

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #36 on: July 17, 2009, 03:15:36 PM »
Looking good!  Mine Binder just reached that point about 3 weeks ago...

Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #37 on: August 24, 2009, 08:18:19 PM »
Whenever I'm braking, the first wheel to lock up is the passenger's rear.

Let's ignore brakes for the moment and assume they're functioning normally. Can my Powr-Lok limited slip differential be causing this? I haven't looked at it other than to check fluid (limited slip only, of course) and I'm wondering how I can prove to myself that it's working. When I jacked up the rear and turned the driver's side, the other side rotated opposite, which confused me! ???
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Drift2XL

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #38 on: August 24, 2009, 09:02:45 PM »
First off, stick or auto?

Second, sounds like the clutches in the LSD are worn out. But still with a stick and bad LSD, engine braking shouldn't give that much of a difference.

It sounds like there is a blockage in the line or brake thats stopping fluid back to the master cylinder. Giving a higher brake pressure. The only way I know is to check brake line pressure with a gauge. The one I'm thinking about screws into the bleeder valve hole, that must be taken off. Check all four to compare.

Also, that one brake may be the priority brake. Some master cylinders have the preportioning valving cast in. I know that some Fords do a R/L bias, as well as a F/R. Check the lines from teh MC to see if that is true. My ole '70 Stang always had the right sides lock up first.
 
If its a panic stop situation, it may be livable. If its borderline normal driving, big problem. Knobbys don't take to flatspotting too well.
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #39 on: August 24, 2009, 09:19:19 PM »
1972 IH Scout II vHoplee
1977 304A long block with 1972 style intake & exhaust manifolds
Borg-Warner T-18, 4 speed manual transmission
Newish OEM style clutch, disassembled, inspected, reassembled
Dana 30 front axle, open diff, drum brakes, 3.73 ratio
Dana 44 rear axle, Powr-Lok style limited slip NOT Trac-Lok!  ;), drum brakes, 3.73 ratio
manual steering
manual brakes
cast proportioning valve / brake warning light switch

The prop valve may be at fault, but the Powr Lok is a weird little animal in my mind. It's got a cross shaped thingy riding up and down in slots... weird!
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #40 on: November 12, 2009, 10:35:27 PM »
I have used the vacuum gauge... and it was good...

dialed in the idle mixture screws in the throttle plate of my 275cfm Holley 2300 center-hung with OEM style vent baffle... and...

vacuum readings on the vintage 1976 'Be Your Own Mechanic!' gauge started around 16 inches and finished at 20.5 inches. That's a lotta inches!

idle speed is now factory spec at approx 675 RPM  ;D

Of course, this makes me wonder about the wisdom of a 6.5 power valve...  ::)

and now I can go dial in the timing ... AGAIN! heehehehe
« Last Edit: November 12, 2009, 10:37:21 PM by Hoplee »
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Hoplee

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #41 on: January 08, 2010, 02:15:06 AM »
Dialing in a carb is a lot of fun...

 until the weather changes and you have to start over.

All kidding aside, I finished the carburetor and have moved back to the problem I discovered the first time my Scout moved under its own power. The first time I drove Baby Blue, I felt like the engine's torque was losing patience with 2nd and 3rd., I estimated it's remaining useful service life at somewhere between 'maybe' and 'probably not, man'.

The Borg Warner T-18, untouched since 1972 finally gave me a warning 'CLUNK!' one night and I decided right then and there, "A year is probably long enough to ignore a problem like this."

So I made some calls and scored some IH parts off of an old friend who needed space. A B/W T-19 close ratio full synchro four speed from a 79 scout, complete with bellhousing, throwout, and a Dana 20 T-Case with the later style rear facing fill plug. Having never before replaced or rebuilt a transmission, I naively thought "How heavy can they be?".

Long story short, I swapped the bearing retainers, cleaned and did new gaskets for the T-19 & BOTH D20 cases (Think: Crud of the Ages). I didn't think I'd use the newer one, but...

It was only after bench-pressing the 80 lbs transfer case every fifteen minutes or so, for about a day that I figured it out.

I was also after I dropped the stupid thing onto my chest, thusly pinning myself between my own car and a jack handle that I wish I could operate with my knee.

Does anyone want to guess why a 1972 Dana 20 transfer case from behind a Borg Warner T-18 four speed equipped Scout won't mount up to a 1979 model Borg Warner T-19 four speed equipped Scout?

Hints:
1) has nothing to do with spline count
2) has nothing to do with bearing retainers / transfer case adapter plates
3) has everything to do with 0.125  ;)

PS: 'Way Cool Bruise' is still 3 or more colors. ;D
« Last Edit: January 08, 2010, 02:18:32 AM by Hoplee »
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Blooze

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Re: RL Project - 1972 International Harvester Scout II
« Reply #42 on: January 08, 2010, 06:35:42 AM »
Boy, do I know your pain - it is as if a 318 Dodge out of an Automatic wasn't even made in the same factory as one out of a 4 speed.  There were days where I would have committed murder all over a Detroit Engineer had he had the misfortune to walk into my shop.

I also remember the sheet of paper in my IH pickup with all the different venders that had supplied the parts for that particular truck.

So... did ya get it goin?  Are ya healin'?

It is good to see you - we miss you around here.

:) $
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