Sorry I haven't posted pics, I've been mad at the girl who owns the camera! The following information is copied sequentially from my notes. That means that something that hasn't been completed at the top of this post may be addressed further on down. 
Equipped with an engine that hadn't cranked in 14 years and a short prayer, this thing thundered over the road with rusted out glass-packs and accelerated to passing speeds on 58 without a hiccup. In fact, the only thing that's gone wrong is that the headlights both went out when I went over a bump the first night it was running! (oh sh*T!). The speedo isn't working, but my little brother was following me and he says 55-60mph top speed during the first real shake-down run. She's got enough leg to go faster, but not until I get done with the next phase: bushings, ball joints and dampers. (oh my!)
I did go ahead and get a permanent tag on it today and took care of registration and insurance. Strangely, as a result of a mistake made in Georgia several years ago, I'm now the proud owner (according to the state of TN) of the world's ONLY 1970 Scout II.
Bureaucracy, or bureau-crazy? Whatever, I'm just glad I can drive it, FINALLY!
PS: That little 304 SV power-plant will indeed bark those 31x10.50 tires during a moderate launch...
Progress Report & Action Items
1) Choke cable replaced with a longer piece to accommodate Holley 2300. Return spring installed/adjusted 1 week later to insure proper opening and closing.
2) Weatherstripping installed on driver's side door. Generic late model GM piece used, but is considerably thicker than OEM, pushing the door outward slightly at the rear bottom corner. Generic adhesive backed weatherstrip mat'l purchased for lift-gate/tail-gate, transmission tunnel cover areas.
-> Order OEM style door seals from SSS
3) Front turn signal assemblies, headlight bucket assemblies, front sheet-metal assembly removed/inspected/cleaned/repaired for improved function of electrical system. 3 separate horn units removed from front of vehicle including non-functioning OEM. New 10ga. ground wires run from battery neg post to fender and front bulkhead behind headlights. New bulbs all around, all circuits tested for continuity. For 5 minutes, everything worked. Then, the rear turn signals decided to give up!
-> Consider running dedicated grounds to all lighting/electrical instead of body/frame/chassis grounds.
-> Remove/inspect/clean/repair rear marker lights and tail-light assemblies. Improve grounding solution with new 10ga ground wire
4) Coolant over-flow tank currently uninstalled. OEM over-flow tank cap is toast. Generic replacement purchased but will need to be modified to accept hoses FROM radiator, and TO purge.
-> Clean over-flow tank
-> Modify replacement cap for lines to and from
5) Intake currently leaking a small amount of coolant, approx 1 or 2 table-spoons during 1 hour of driving.
-> Re-torque Intake mounting bolts
6) Heater not currently functioning. Heater blower motor and associated system are functional. Ductwork removed and defroster cable linkage disconnected for inspection. Heater control valve currently bypassed. System functions well, but does not get warm. Hoses carrying engine coolant to and from heater core were cold to the touch after 20-30 minutes running time. My latest theory is that a low coolant level, partially caused by the omission of the over-flow tank, is preventing the system from filling the heater core.
-> Install coolant overflow tank and raise level of coolant to OEM spec, re-test.
I forgot to mention that the small coolant leak from the intake is NOT contaminating engine oil or entering the combustion chambers at this time. It is a concern and I'm inspecting it every time it runs- before and after, but so far, lost coolant has been found only at the back of the valley pan and in two small pockets at the top rear of the engine block. No other areas of the engine bay exhibit any signs of leaking coolant or dampness of any kind. I'm going to re-torque and re-test. Then, if I still see a little anti-freeze after that, I'll remove/clean/inspect/re-install the intake manifold.
So far, the only bad thing is the almost total lack of weatherstripping. There's enough exhaust entering the cab that I get headaches after 10-15 minutes of driving!
At the beginning of the grounding odyssey, I forgot to mention that I replaced 5qty 14A fuses and 1qty 20A fuse. The radio fuse is currently omitted - cause I ain't got a radio! -g
I really thought that I would've blown some of those fuses by now, what with all the monkeying about, but so far, no apparent issues to report. Needless to say, the PO Brand fuses installed previously were just... wrong!
I also removed most of the old wiring to the various running lights attached by someone in history to my travel-top and the remaining bits of the hack job of an electric fuel pump install that ditched for OEM mechanical.
The vexation that is my turn signal issue continues...
The lights are burning bright, but I've got gremlins in the system. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. As this vehicle is intended to remain streetable, it's unacceptable for me to have safety equipment that isn't 100%. After researching the issue here on the BB, I purchased a turn signal commutator interruptor for an 89 caprice with no tilt/tele. I then did something very stupid.
I tried to remove the steering wheel without a steering wheel puller.
Today, it's once more into the breach after a quick stop at the auto-parts place for the right tool for the !$%E job!
Found a sticker in the glove box that says Power-Lok. It sounds great, but now I need to spend a day learning what that means and how to tell whether or not it's worn out! If it needs clutches, ed can probably expect another 40+ page 'pdf masterwork' by yours truly!
This is my first 4x4, but my second Scout II. The first one was a '73 model 3 speed 2WD with a 258. So far, everything on my 72 is different except the body! I humbly admit that I have a LOT TO LEARN!!!
http://www.sonoradesertscouts.com/sc...ing_column.htmexcellent steering column write-up.
Progress Report:
1) Coolant overflow tank installed. Crack repaired with "Magnum Steel" brand epoxy putty. Purchased a generic coolant cap from the HELP aisle, didn't fit. Instead, cut one side open on a spare 1/4" rubber tube and slipped open end over coolant tank in order to fit a Knott's Racing jelly jar lid with two holes cut into it. Used putty to set purge line and inlet. Ghetto fabulous.
Added coolant to bring system to full and re-tested heater. This time, did not open the flap for "air" and just ran the fan. Result: VICTORY! We have heat, and it's enough that even the girl-friend admitted it! It's not going to fry eggs, but it will take the edge off a cold morning.
2) Exhaust leak observed at dip-stick tube mounting bolt to exhaust manifold.
-> Re-torque and re-test
3) No PCV valve appears to be installed. it looks like someone just installed a blocked off fitting in the mad rush to get it running. I've got a little oil around and under the dipstick area, so my theory is that it's puking from there instead of the PCV.
-> Install PCV valve and re-test
Got a generic Grant steering wheel puller AND convinced my grandfather that I didn't put it together backwards! It takes a little persuasion, but not more than about 15 minutes worth, tops.
I'd read here on the BB that the snap ring was a bear, and the BB is RIGHT! It's not that it's impossible to get off, it's that it's nigh impossible to avoid damaging the yellow plastic contact holder directly underneath it!
The 89 Caprice no tele/tilt turn signal switch commutator interruptor (I'm almost starting to enjoy saying that!) went in without issue. There are two wires in the new TSSCI harness that are not used by my Scout, but the OEM unit has the moldings to accept them. I'm guessing cruise control. I had to remove the gauge cover sheetmetal to remove the plastic/vinyl steering column to dash cover. Buncha screws but no big deal. After I had that off, it was a piece of cake to feed the wiring through and connect to the vehicle harness plug.
After all that, I now have 1 less mud dauber nest in the steering column (no joke!). As a bonus, my turn signal now returns to center like it should and is yet another shiny new part that no one can see. The only bad news was that the gremlins were still afoot.
The next possible culprit was the flasher units themselves. I took them out of their spring retainers on the back of the fuse panel and disconnected/reconnected them. Their markings were identical, so I swapped positions after examining the contacts.
Suddenly we had turn signals and hazards! EXCEPT for the driver's side rear. So I took the drivers tail-light bucket out and looked everything over with some minor cleaning thrown in. Everything looked great so I threw it back in while I looked for my 12V test light.
When I finally found my test light 15 minutes later, a strange thing had happened due to SOMETHING (I hope!) that I'd done: everything was working! I tested it out for several minutes and there were no hiccups. Every factory exterior light is, right now, working as it should and doing it reliably. I'll pick up some extra flasher units soon to throw in the glove box JIC.
In other news, I bought the wrong PCV valve. I am teh noob.
Progress Report:
*New turn signal switch communtator interruptor installed
*All factory exterior lights functioning 100%
*Less mud-dauber nests, cold weather is the best time to knock bug nests out of your car.
*Weather-stripping complete, but door seals will be replaced again soon to correct the thickness issue.
Ongoing Mystery:
*My speedometer gauge light only works when I've got high-beams on!
WIRING
The problems with the wiring aren't systemic, they're localized. The issues I'm seeing are all related to the poor installation of way too many decorative running lights. They stripped OEM wires and wrapped the additional wires to them. Any electrical tape that had been used (hopefully!) at some point was long gone. Hence, the oxidizing copper of the two exposed wires sort of wore through each other.
I spotted it last night while unscrewing the ancient vinyl+tiny light bulbs running lights off the back of the travel-top. I got underneath when I dropped something and noticed a small, filthy bundle of wires going around the back of the gas tank and looking like it needed some love. They're factory, but they've been bruised by the bowie knife style wiring job done sometime in the last 36 years.
I'm relieved, actually. Looks easy to fix, and CHEAP!
PCV
I also continued my investigation into crankcase ventilation. I re-installed the flame arrestor (looks like a "breather" to me!) and found the issue with PCV. It DID/DOES have a PCV system installed, but the line used for vacuum wasn't strong enough and would flatten/collapse due to manifold vacuum. It says "fuel-line" on it, so I went and bought some stronger stuff made for carb/EGR type crap. I'll reconnect the flame arrestor to the air cleaner, install the new line for PCV and see what happens.
Manifolds Leaking
I re-torqued the intake and exhaust bolts. I'm happy to report that the exhaust leak from the oil dipstick tube bracket bolt is fixed. Every bolt checked, no further issue to report except that rest of the exhaust is hideous and the hangers just plain suck, but it is basically intact! The intake is MUCH better after re-torque. I can't say the water leak is gone because I haven't driven it enough, but I can say that it's very, very small IF it's still there, and I've got my eye out for that kinda crap! It was only a couple of table spoons to begin with, but it bugs me.
More wiring maintenance tonight. I cleaned up all the connections in the rear and made sure that every wire I could see went to an OEM light. I wound up with two "extra" wires wrapped in an OEM style green protective cover. The unused wires terminated behind the passenger's side tail light, and from there go into the right frame rail.
The driver's side turn signal is not operating properly. The two-filament bulb is shining max brightness all the time. The passenger's side functions correctly. Should be a simple matter of comparison + wiring diagrams to kill the problem.
There are 3 disconnected wires behind the dash. I'm tracking them down now. It looks like things got buggered when someone decided to hook a bunch of stuff to the dome lights. I've got a mystery wire from the tab of the headlight switch closest to the dash-panel. We'll find out tomorrow if it has a home or if it's a hitch-hiker! The others also appear to be lighting related.
I somehow lost the pcv valve + flame arrestor + crank vent hose, so I picked up a new PCV valve + crank hose + male hose barb (air tool junk) today. I couldn't find a suitable flame arrestor clone, so I screwed the hose barb in and mounted a rudimentary breather filter to it. This should allow fresh air to enter the crank-case without bringing crap with it. I installed the PCV with the crank vent hose and I expect to test it tomorrow. I'm expecting drivability gains as the collapsing tube that I replaced was preventing all function of the PCV system.
There's now about 5 less pounds of georgia clay in the rear. Most of it went into my eyes.
I forgot to mention a few things:
->Crappy, rusted liftgate with good glass and T-handle removed from Scout.
->Valiant effort made to save the old gasket. The vinyl 'keeper' was so old and brittle that it came out in many small pieces. I did get it out, and I did work it over for about an hour before I got the box knife and cut it out!
->Replacement gasket from broken original lift-gate glass being prepared for install. I moved it inside tonight to get it warm and tomorrow I'll clean it and then cover it and the lift-gate glass in dish-washing detergent to make them slide against each other as easily as possible during install. The glass will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Random thought: Who glues a nickle to their lift-gate glass??? The lift-gate is 'locked', so I'm not sure that I can get the T-handle off of it. Ideas?
->Original not so crappy and not rusty at all lift-gate will be cleaned, primed, and painted either semi-gloss white or "farm implement" red, depending on my mood.
->gauge panel & gauges partially disassembled to correct any lingering "bubba-brand" modifications. Most of it looks great so far, and by that I mean un-touched!
->fuse panel removed, inspected, re-installed. Redneck 'wiring to nowhere' removed from radio circuit. All contacts cleaned with brass bristle brush. No problems to report, no damage/corrosion observed, (plenty of dust though!)
