Well Barumba - not too bad. Different, but not too bad. I came within 2 tenths of my personal best for the class on MVS with your
CUPRA. And without getting too intense about it, I set the following middle of the pack times on the Mountain:
NUH:
294.728NDH:
285.451But my thoughts are that the tune could be better. The car had a tendency to be a little pushy and I had to be careful about not being late when setting up turns, and give them extra space to get the weight right. But, it performed so I can't really say anything is wrong.
What I have decided to do is re-Toon the thing My way with explanation - stem to stern, then see if it performs any better, and send it to you to see what you think of it. Then you can make decisions on what is better and what you may think, "...that Blooze is all wet..."
Gears- FD = 3.96
- 1-6= 2.62 1.91 1.53 1.28 1.09 0.90
Setup| Wt Bias - SWR | 50.00% | 47.50% |
| Parameter | Front | Rear |
| Tires | 27.5 | 29 |
| Camber | -1.1 | -0.9 |
| Toe | 0.2 | 0.1 |
| Caster | 5.0 | |
| ARB +80% | 16.3 | 16.3 |
| Springs 0% | 570 | 570 |
| Height | 6.7 | 6.8 |
| Rebound | 8.2 | 8.1 |
| Bump | 4.0 | 4.4 |
| Aero 0% | 75 | 137 |
| Brakes | 48 | 104 |
| Front Diff | 26 | 0 |
| Rear Diff | na | na |
| Torque | na | |
On the Tires (Tyres?) and alignment. The reason I ran it on Maple Valley is because I check all my tires after 5 or 6 laps on MVS. With the psi set at 29 for the fronts, by the 4th lap they were at 33.5 psi. With 31-32 considered optimum, that was too high. I have found settings of 27.5 F, and 29 R to stay within a workable range better.
I was especially suspect of your Camber settings, which seemed a bit low. The tires, both front and rear were substantially hotter on the outsides in short order. The general school of thought is that this is not good. It indicates positive camber, and zero to slightly negative is considered best. My settings for the Camber are -1.1 F, and -.9 R.
There are a couple two or three over-all 80,000 ft types of things that I am trying to accomplish when I tune a car.
First, I want it to rotate around itself with a minimum of tail wagging. I have found that this is best accomplished when the Weight Bias is 50% or as close to it as possible. Hence the Bias of 50% for this car. The SWR was 51.67 - a bit high for a production car so the 46.5 is a move towards the lower end of the scale.
I don't like the cars to go sliding and skittering about, that is another reason for the lowered SWR. And even tho I added an additional 80% to the ARB, they are still half of the original stock settings.
(I see that Phil has responded to this as well and that we are repeating each other somewhat)
Another thing that I always try to do, specially in lower powered vehicles is protect the Torque. Camshafts don't do that. The Torque/Hp ratio goes from .929 to .863 with the two cam upgrades. They cost 40 Pi and provide 32 Hp and raise the power band but seriously hamper the car's ability to work in low rpm ranges. You find yourself having to downshift to pick the rpms up to get back into the power band
Such was the case with my testing. I was able to take the top spot with the car on the downhill, but kept losing to my ghost in the twisties near the top of the Up Hill because it couldn't pull a couple of those corners in 2nd or 3rd.
Here's the new numbers...
NUH:
292.693NDH:
284.050That's almost 4 seconds...
I guess I will leave it to your questions if you have any.
$
The Leaderboard is uptodate at this point.
