here's my survey so far of the distributor/ignition parts I've got, but first, a scary picture:
~~~~INVENTORY~~~~
~~New Chrysler Magnetic Distributor Pickup
- For converting original, IH distributors from points to electronic ignition, required for efficient operation of TBI conversion
- As recomended by the BinderPlanet.com for converting a Holley Distributor from 'points style' to electronic style
- I have a rarely seen points equipped Prestolite distributor, the only kind the gurus at BinderPlanet.com haven't ever seen or posted pictures of converting points to electronic.
- at Autozone for 16 bucks or so. should've been 9.99 on Ebay
- OEM spec for a 1977 Dodge D300 with a 440 v8
~~Original/Current Scout Distributor~~
- International Harvester, 1972 ed. by Prestolite
- points style distributor for v8 engines, NOT the infamous "gold box" stuff from the later Presto.
- mechanical and vacuum advance
- VERY similar to Holley in every way, from geometry to function. (Binderplanet.com conversion for Holley style distributor may work? )
-> Points to Electronic Conversion Notes
- Mopar style pickup appears to mount in a location identical to the Holley conversion, favoring proper mechanical and vacuum advance function if required
- From the pics of a Holley, it looks like I have less room vertically on the main shaft on mine for a ford style reluctor wheel, I dunno yet.
- Holley Distributor conversion is able to slide ford style reluctor right over the cam used by the points and under the rotor button, no fuss, no muss, leaving the advance shaft and cam in there.
- Appears that the cam (for the points) is pressed onto the advance shaft of the distributor on mine . Can it be pressed off and replaced with the Ford style reluctor fnordwheel?
~~"Small Cap" GM HEI Distributor~~
-> Larger style "8 pin" "SELECT" brand, GM style ignition module
- Controls Fuel & Spark
- 8th pin is a ground
-> base plate tweaked slightly towards module, down and away from cap.
It's probably how a little dust n' rust creeped inside...
-> rusty innards but shaft turns freely, rust may be causing slight
interference rubbing of reluctor, but would likely solve issue to rub
off the parts with a rag & carb cleaner, then turn it around a few times by hand
-> Favored for conversions b/c it allows GM HEI style ignition in cars with
limited space (LIKE MINE) by moving the coil to a manifold mounted bracket.
-> What does the big copper shield around the reluctor do???
~~"Large Cap" GM HEI Distributor~~
-> Smaller style "7 pin" GM ignition module,
- Controls Fuel & Spark
- module appears original and unmolested since the heat
transfer grease was clean & sticky.
- has a painted yellow dot, which matches the dot on the
GM style coil I've got from the Chevy truck stuff
-> stationary GM reluctor wheel may be held in with bolts, probably requires main shaft removal to press off the central, rotating bits.
-> No copper shielding for reluctor
-> main shaft diameter measured just above rotor mounting plate is
0.490" or 12.4mm outside diameter
~~~~~A Vocabulary Rodeo with: Reluctors! ~~~~~
-->Electronic 'reluctor' sensors replaced points style ignitions in the mid 70s and are still in use on everything that isn't a brand new vehicle with some pretty demanding compression.
-->"Reluctor Sensors", or "Variable Reluctor Sensors" are magnetic or hall effect sensors used for counting engine revolutions and sending a signal to their electronic ignition modules.
-->Most reluctor sensors have what resembles a little metal paddle wheel mounted around the advance shaft of the distributor, near the top and just under the plastic rotor or 'button'. Next to it in the distributor should be the magnetic sensor, squarish and about the size of the end of your thumb
-->On Fords and Chryslers, a small magnetic pickup is mounted on a sheet metal bracket. Ideally it's placed just outside the reluctor / paddle wheel's arc of motion by an 0.008 or 0.010" gap, down in the body of the distributor itself.
-->Sends a voltage signal to the EST/Ignition Module whenever the "paddle" of a reluctor wheel rotates past the magnetic sensor's face. On a Ford v8 reluctor wheel, there are 8 paddles, one for each cylinder.
-->Usually two wires to EST/module
-->Ford/Chrysler style VR sensors: The magnetic sensor is stationary outside of rotating reluctor wheel. On a GM, the "paddle wheel" reluctor is stationary and the 'spinning-pointy-doughnut' or "SPD" shaped sensor is mounted within it.
~~Miscellaneous Notes & Issues~~
1) A majority of the remaining fuel/ignition conversion parts,
including the wiring harness and throttle body, are from an 1989ish
305 v8 Camaro.
2) The "Small Cap" is Camaro/305 and has a matching main engine ECM to
go with it, sitting in a box.
3) The "Large Cap" is Chevy Truck/350 and I also have a matching main
engine ECM to go with it. (same box).
~~Problems~~
1) How does a GM reluctor work???
2) Wouldl a 5.7L GM ECM have a sh*tfit trying to 'talk' to a 5.0L GM
module? harness? shoe on the other foot? etc.
3) I have a Chrysler magnetic pickup and I'm using a Ford reluctor wheel with a GM module + ECM...
~~POLARITY REFERENCE~~
-> Ford Ford & Chrysler style reluctors and GM ignition modules
Positive (+) Negative (-)
Ford, MSD orange wire violet wire
Chrysler orange wire black wire
GM HEI white wire green wire
~~REFERENCE LINKS~~
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htmhttp://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htmhttp://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48769
